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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.