Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
